Modeling

I started on my Blood Angel Assault Terminators, I’m trying to do a similar paint job to my earlier Captain Karlaen however I stupidly forgot to document how the heck I did such a great job.

2 Tone Prime, Vallejo Urethane Primer Black and Vallejo Urethane Primer German Red Brown

2 Tone Prime, Vallejo Urethane Primer Black and Vallejo Urethane Primer German Red Brown

First step was a 2 tone priming.  I applied Vallejo Surface Primer Black, and after it dried I applied Vallejo Surface Primer German Red Brown from the top.

Blood Angel Assault Terminators Base Coated with Minitaire Nebula Red

Blood Angel Assault Terminators Base Coated with Minitaire Nebula Red

Next I applied a thin layer of Minitaire Nebula Red
through the airbrush.  After several comparisons I find when run dilute through the airbrush it compares extremely closely to the Citadel Mephiston Red.  I run this basecoat with a thin layer that way the dark undercoat and any highlighting by the primer shines through.

Base Coated with Citadel Blood Red and Vallejo Model Color Red.

Highlighted with Citadel Blood Red and Vallejo Model Color Red.

Next I did a thin Highlight over most of the model with Citadel Blood Red, I also did one with Vallejo Model Color Red just to compare the two colors.  They’re so close to each other that I cannot tell the difference so it just comes down to preference.  I also put a layer of Vallejo Model Color Black Grey with a touch more black blended into it on all the places that later I’m going to paint either “black” or metallic.

This week I plan on finishing the Blood Red highlights on the last two figures and pick out further base layers, tabards, purity seals, Gold details etcetera.

I am in the middle of another project but I really wanted to keep my one post a week schedule going, so I thought I would give you all a glimpse at an older project of mine. Before I dove into the world of Orks and 40k, I tested the war game waters with Warmachine. Along with my first miniature painting work, this period also saw my first efforts at a terrain project. Since Warmachine tends to only need a handful of dice, I decided to incorporate a dice tower into its construction.

The basic build consisted of a poster tube and parts from a Bachmann Trains O scale water tower kit. Detail elements and the dice tower internals came from plasticard and parts from my bits bin. The final element of any good terrain piece is the base and I built this one before I had really started playing with HDF board. As a result, it is just two layers of corkboard with a piece of plasticard sandwiched between them for structural integrity. This was also necessary to create a watertight seal for another special feature I wanted to try.

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Inside the water trough/dice catch, I decided to try out water effects for the first time. I went with Woodland Scenics Realistic Water because the reviews pointed towards it creating a very durable surface. I found it to be an easy to use product; you lay down thin 1/8 inch layers of clear resin and give each one roughly 24 hours to cure. I painted the base a light blue to start with and then put down thin streaks of blue ink between layers to give the water a sense of depth and motion.

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Once I was ready to start the actual painting process, I started with a variety of basic browns and metallics from P3 paints. This was also the first project on which I experimented with Citadel’s technical line. In particular, I used Ryza Rust, Typhus Corrosion, and Nihilakh Oxide all too excellent effect in giving the tower a weathered and worn look. I was especially proud of the oxidized effect on the bronze roof.

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There was a lot of experimentation involved on this project and I learned a lot from it.  Never be afraid to try new techniques.

I’ve finished some Catachans, this was a troop project so I didn’t do a lot of detail on them, in fact I seldom paint them the same way twice.  They look decent but I do these just to relax and because they’re more impressive for their numbers not for the detail.

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Since finishing these I’ve been assembling some Blood Angel Assault Terminators, these are beautiful models and I’ll take some time to do a high quality paint job on them.  I’ve also assembled some Genestealers from the Space Hulk boxed set, these guys will get my standard Genestealer paint job, nothing exceptional but looks good.

Space Hulk Genestealers and Blood Angel Assault Terminators

Space Hulk Genestealers and Blood Angel Assault Terminators

The Baneblade is finished!  The differences are subtle from the last update, the lenses and lights are all finished, soot was added to the gun barrels and the exhaust and mud and dirt was added to the tracks and the bottom of the tank.

This tank is my entry into a competition that’ll wrap up with a poll posted in the Warhammer 40k Google + community! We still have until August 3rd before the competition is over so stay tuned to this blog for the other entries!

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For those who’d like to see the previous posts on this, they’re linked below, I’ll eventually put together a slideshow of the process as well including colors used and post that to youtube.

Thank you for following along!

Baneblade weathered and ready for last details.

Camo basecoat completed on Baneblade project

Camo netting and Sandbags added to Baneblade

Adding detail to the Baneblade

http://misterfairweather.blogspot.com/2015/05/baneblade-progress.html

I reviewed the Mantic Marauder Raptor a few weeks back and mentioned that I would be converting them to serve as my Ork Warbuggies.  Having gotten them assembled I went right to work on the converting process.  I ended up going with only a few minor changes as I found the Raptors to be very close to the look I already wanted.  Mantic’s models do not have quite the same level of detail as Games Workshop’s releases, but I they get some points for the cooler buggy design.

I did have to replace the gunners of course, as mentioned in the review they were a tad small and oddly posed.  As a replacement, the Ork Gunner model from the Games Workshop Gorkanaut was damn near perfect for my purposes.  Thankfully, I recently picked up a few sprues of them in a bits lot.  I added some shoulder armor from the Ork Nob sprue to make them look a little tougher and they fit the buggies as if they were made for them.

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For the Warbuggies themselves I fashioned unique front fender armor for each from Killa Kan bits and then decorated them with Ork Glyphs from the Trukk kit.  Almost every Ork kit comes with extra decorative bits, and half the fun is finding unique ways to use them.  The end result were Warbuggies that fit all my Orky needs, ramshackle vehicles that still looked like they could move fast and spit out plenty of dakka.  I was tempted to magnetize the weapon so I could swap in Big Shootas, but honestly I plan to run these guys primarily as tank hunters so ended up just gluing the rockets in place.

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I also added a base to each of them using a bit of metal tubing and some square 40mm Warhammer Fantasy bases.  This was to add some stability on the table and so that I could magnetize them for transport as I use metal trays.  The squares were positioned so that unless you are looking for them they are pretty much invisible beneath the rear of the buggies.

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For color scheme, I followed the same palette I have used on my other customs so far.   I put a red base over most of the vehicle, and then a mix of gunmetal, silver, copper, and brass on the various metallic parts.  I picked out various bolts and panel edges to give it a scratched up look, dry brushed Ryza Rust over the gunmetal, then washed it all in nul oil.  Then I hit the tires and under carriage, including the base, with typhus corrosion for a textured mud covered look.  I also picked out one sigil on each to hit with purple as I have made that something of a unifying element with this force.

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While they all look great together, here are a series with a closer look at each.  Followed by a group shot with my Warboss and Painboy.  So far this Road Waaagh!!! is coming together nicely.

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Since the last post most of the work has been weathering.  The effects are Subtle but worthwhile. First step was to sponge on the base color of Vallejo Model Air Sand Yellow.  This makes it look like the camo layers have been chipped down to the bottom coat of paint.  Next Citadel Eshin Grey was sponged on to simulate the paint being chipped through clear to the primer.  This was all sealed with a coat of Future floor polish.

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After that I’ve applied an oil wash with a mixture of black and brown oil paint to the panel lines to give them more contrast as well as did a pin wash with oil to the heads of all the rivets.  After about an hour I took a brush and I worked the oil paint into the surrounding area and dragged it downwards to give the weathering a sense of streaking.

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From here I made a mixture of Brown oil paint and rust colored weathering powder and flicked it randomly on the model to create a few rust spots.  These spots were sprayed with mineral spirits to blend them in with the paint.  The running wheels were sprayed with a fresh coat of Dessert yellow paint and sealed with Future (I should have done this before the first time I hit it with future, there are no mistakes just changes in plans).  The running wheels were then flooded with some mineral spirits and oil wash flowed into it, the extra mineral spirits on the running wheels makes sure the oil wash flows into the crevices.  The rubber part of the wheels were painted with Valejo Model Color Black Grey.  The barrels of the guns are painted with Citadel Warplock Bronze, Citadel leadbelcher was drybrushed over it.

I mixed some rust colored weathering powder with Citadel Calthan Brown paint and painted on the Exhaust stacks.  A lighter rust powder was mixed into some brown oil wash and painted over the top of the exhaust stacks and the tow chain on the front.
This puts me where I’m at now! A lot of the work is done, I’ve got to do some work with dirt weathering powders on the tracks and the lower half of the tank. Lenses and lights need paint, and some soot to a few spots.

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Previous posts in series

Camo basecoat completed on Baneblade project

Camo netting and Sandbags added to Baneblade

Adding detail to the Baneblade

http://misterfairweather.blogspot.com/2015/05/baneblade-progress.html

If you are going to run Orks, you need someone to patch up your boyz when they inevitably get shot up by the enemy. Thankfully, there are Painboyz with their ‘Urty Syringes, collection of rusty Doc Tools, and pack of Grot Orderlies running around ready to reattach an arm here, replace a leg there, maybe add a rocket launcha just for kicks. Naturally, I needed one in my army, and since I’m going for speed he was going to need bike.

There is a fairly cool looking plastic Painboy model available now, but for this project I decided to go with the older design which is still available in Finecast from the Games Workshop website. This was my first experience with Finecast and I am kind of hoping it will be my last. It is a very fragile material, which makes it easy to cut up for modifications, but also means that pieces break off at the slightest pressure.  I spent more time trying to get the doc to stay together then I did building his custom bike.

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For that custom bike I needed a suitable base. I could have just used an Ork Warbiker, but since the Painboy model came with a Grot, I figured it would be nice to have a sidecar so he could ride shotgun and keep the docs tray of pointing doc tools at the ready. Thankfully, Games Workshop just happens to have a Space Marine bike that was perfect for my purposes. It was going to need a bit of work to fit the Ork aesthetic however, far to shiny and new looking.

A Warbiker kit gave me all the parts I needed to properly customize the bike, and I was able to cut up the Painboy and se the Marine biker’s legs to fit the ork right proper in his seat. Some plasticard added some much needed extra armor to the side car and I was ready to prime.

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I followed essentially the same paint scheme I have used on my previous Ork custom projects. Plenty of red to make it go fast and then assorted metalics with some rust and black wash to give it that beat up look I think an Ork vehicle needs. These are rugged well used machines after all. One thing that might be noticeable is that I decided to give the Blood for the Blood God technical paint a try. I figured a Painboy was likely to spend most of his time covered in blood from all his surgeries, and I really like the effect it gives.

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One final shot to give some scale. That and I just really like showing off my Warboss. So far my little Kult of Speed is coming together pretty well. I hope to have my trio of custom warbuggies and a bunch of bikes ready in the next few weeks to give me a solid start to this army.

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I’ve masked  off and sprayed a basecoat on the Baneblade, I had some issue with the paint and primer lifting off when I pulled up the tape so I touched up those spots with a bit of rust red primer.  I’ll use this as a guideline for weathering later.  Next step is to block in the other base colors on things that won’t be camo like the accessories and netting.

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Previous Baneblade posts

Camo netting and Sandbags added to Baneblade

Adding detail to the Baneblade

http://misterfairweather.blogspot.com/2015/05/baneblade-progress.html

At the suggestion of the fantastic Henry South (http://4gotowar.blogspot.com/) I added some sandbags and camo netting to the Baneblade and it definitely fills up the space and covers up some of the areas of the build I wasn’t as happy with.  I also shot a coat of primer over the whole figure to see how it ties together.  Let me know your thoughts!

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Previous Baneblade posts

http://misterfairweather.blogspot.com/2015/05/baneblade-progress.html – initial construction

http://blog.neutral-evil.net/2015/06/18/adding-detail-to-the-baneblade/ – extra detailing.

One of the things that appeals to me about the Orks is the very ramshackle Mad Max style they have to their vehicles.  The whole thrown together from whatever junk they could find and random armor plates bolted on all over the place aesthetic really calls to me.  That being said I’m not a huge fan of a lot of the actual Ork vehicle models available from Games Workshop.  In the case of the Trukk in particular the issue isn’t the styling, which I love, but the size.  The Ork Trukk is a rather rinky dink little vehicle, which is really a problem across all 40k factions.  I know true scale vehicles would be massive and take up way to much room on the table.  Still I wanted a bigger Trukk for my hoard so I decided that like any good Ork player the best option would be to build my own.

I started with the official kit, because despite its diminutive size its full of amazing detail and bits that would help me bring my project life.  Then I paired that with a ten-dollar snap kit Humvee model I picked up in the local toy aisle.  Throw in a sheet or two of plasticard to hack into extra armor plates and I had all the ingredients to build da right proper Trukk.

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I hacked up the model, tearing off the roof and punching some holes for the engine and exhaust to stick through, then started armoring it up with bits from the Trukk kit and pieces of plasticard.  I wanted as many of upgrade options as possible to find their way onto the finished model.  The boarding planks drop down off the back to give the charging passengers that precious extra inch.  The wrecking ball hangs from the side for those surprise Trukk assaults, and we have the reinforced ram up front for when I want to tank shock.  I don’t know that I’ll always use all those options, but it’s nice to be able to point them out when I am.

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As a personal touch I through a unique hood ornament up front.  It’s not 40k without skulls, and I just find the Necrons so much more interesting with dapper hats.  The hats are available on Shapeways by the way and will likely end on more of my projects in the future.

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To finish it all off I made sure to paint it red and then a lot of metallic bases and then dry brushed for rust and tarnish and everything washed in black for that grimy oily look I think all Orks should have.  The finished model came out even better than I had hoped.

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To give an idea of scale, my Trukk is 2 ½ inches longer and a ½ inch wider than the official model, while having the same height.  It can fit 12 boyz in the passenger section, though still a little tight it is far better than the GW version in that respect.  It is also just a little bit bigger then my Biker Warboss, though I think the two look rather epic beside each other.  Until next time ladies and gents keep bashing and building.  It is the right proper Ork way.

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